Model Paint Selection

[sigfan]

Hi, everyone.

I realize I can probably ask 10 people and get 10 different answers, but I was wondering about the paint I should use on my Rockford Firebird.

In the past, I have only used enamels, usually Testors.

What is the advantage/disadvantage to using acrylics?

What about laquers?

I am not necessarily looking for specific color recommendations, just info about why I would use one or the other. I want this to be fairly simple. I will be brushing some details and spraying with a rattlecan for others. This is a standard plastic kit with some resin conversion pieces. I am not concerned about using the exact automotive color/formula. I just want it to turn out nice.

Would you stay away from Testors? Is Tamiya the only way to go? Again, I know a lot of this is personal preference, but you have the experience. :)

How about using a primer? A must, right?

Any thoughts you may have are appreciated!

Thanks!

sigfan

[sparc100]

Here is my 2 cents:
For 3 stage finish ( primer + color + clear coat):
the key is the clear coat plus sanding & buffing, the color layer is just color, regardless which type of paint, the purpose is to get the color stick onto the primer layer. This being said, color layer should be as thin as possible & yet still maintain the rich of color. I've used Testors, Tamiya, Dupont & nason true automotive paint (leftover from my bodyshop) for color layer...and experience no difference in result.

One thing to consider is the cleaning process....I do prefer water cleaning instead paint thinner, a bit more environmental friendly. Thus I try to use water based product as much as possible.

Happy modeling

Kason

[sigfan]

Thanks, Kason. I like the idea of water cleanup too. I'll have to try some of the acrylic paint.
And I've never done any clear coats, or buffing/polishing, so that is all new to me. Things have certainly changed since the old days!

sigfan

[Zoom Zoom]

I use acrylics for detailing; interiors, chassis. For bodies the easiest products for beginners will be cans of Tamiya or Testors spray lacquers (not enamels). Tamiya goes on smoother, but in thinner coats. Tamiya TS 13 spray clear will work on both. It's also easiest to buff out after you are done.

Kason is right; your clear needs to be smooth, but remember that the smoother your base coats (from primer through color), the smoother your clear.

Get comfortable with a system or technique before going off on tangents trying others, otherwise you may end up more confused and never actually learn what works vs. what doesn't, and everyone has their own personal style of painting. If you have an airbrush, great, if not, between Tamiya & Testors sprays and brush painting Tamiya/Gunze/Testors Acryl acrylics, you'll have decent success. Buy a box of white plastic disposable spoons, practice on them.

Primer isn't necessary under hobby paints unless you are shooting a base color over an incompatible color of plastic, or you have done bodywork and primer. Tamiya fine primer (white/gray) are perfect, but expensive. Best automotive primer is Plastikote, find that at CarQuest, Main Auto Parts, or even Tractor Supply Company.

For your Rockford car, you'll need putty/primer on the roof for molding in the T-tops. Tamiya makes a decent gold, that needs to be clearcoated afterwards.

[BobC]

I find primer is necessary on almost every build to straighten the body. I usually can get by with one coat of Dupli-Color filler primer, since 90% of it gets sanded off at 600/800. It will fill in small detail, though, so that might be a consideration. Multiple coats of regular primer will accomplish the same result. In that case I use Dupli-Color's 2nd line "Brite Touch" (cheap) primer from Advance Auto, O'reilly, etc. Neither is hot enough to etch the styrene, in my experience.

I then use the Tamiya fine for the final primer, sanded to 1500.

You can't beat Bob's advice, but like he said, you have to discover what works for you. I'm still learning.