Project IROC: Work In Progress #3 Revson

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This thread and replies will chronicle my build of the #3 Peter Revson IROC Porsche. This is to show what to expect with the build and give you as many helpful hints along the way to build the model and have it look as close to identical as every other one being built (the main premise of IROC is to have the cars identical).

First we will start with the body.
http://images14.fotki.com/v256/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN6958-vi.jpg

First order of business is getting the body prepped for painting. The basic kit represents a production Carrera RSR road car; the IROC cars had a few visual differences. There are some basic items that need some relatively simple modifications.

The body itself needs a fair amount of TLC when it comes to prepping it for paint. There are a number of minor pockmarks and nibs and whatnot because the mold is old. Take extra time/care sanding away the mold lines on the front fender tops and along the drop rail areas, especially on the passenger side.

You will need to fill the fuel door; the IROC car ran fiberglass fenders and the fuel filler was under the hood (in front of the car). I accomplished this easily with some superglue and kicker, and then immediately sanded it with sanding/polishing sticks. You can see the faint image of the fuel door underneath the now-polished superglue fill.
http://images14.fotki.com/v249/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN6961-vi.jpg

The passenger side mirror hole needs to be filled. I also filled this quickly w/superglue.
http://images14.fotki.com/v258/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN6962-vi.jpg

There is a cooling hole in the lower leading edge of the rear fender flares. This hole is the same size as the two cooling holes in the front bumper. Use that as a size reference. In the picture I hope you can see the faint molded “jack hole” detail that is molded to the body. The cooling hole you need to drill should be drilled above/rear of the jack hole. Imagine drawing a square around the jack hole, at the upper rear corner of the square is where you would drill your pilot hole to open the duct. This was accomplished in three steps, drill a tiny pilot hole, second drill a larger hole, third drill the final size. I was a bit sloppy with the larger drill, I need to dress the duct a bit before it will be finished.
http://images14.fotki.com/v244/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN6959-vi.jpg

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Here we will get the bumpers and rear wing ready for primer.

Both front and rear bumpers have some significant sink marks along their upper surfaces. I filled them with superglue and sanded them smooth. The rear bumper also has some sink marks on both sides of the bumper area on the rear facing surfaces below the taillights. Those are easily blocksanded without the need for any filler.

You will need to fill the two small holes in the front bumper. I used styrene rod and superglue to fill.
http://images14.fotki.com/v255/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN6960-vi.jpg

You will need to fill the four small holes/slots in the rear bumper. Styrene rod/strip and superglue were used to fill. I also cut away the center section of the clear taillight unit, and mounted it below the engine cover. It’s body color on the IROC cars, vs. clear red on a street car.
http://images14.fotki.com/v255/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN6964-vi.jpg

The rear wing needs attention in a couple areas. Carefully sand out the mold lines and smooth the area between the vent and the rear window, it's pretty grainy from mold wear in that area.

You will need to fill the separation line between the rubber and bodycolor portion of the rear wing. The entire piece is body color on the IROC cars. I used Evercoat spot putty in this area, it’s easier to sand than superglue and this is the trickiest area on the body to fill and sand properly. You’ll need some sort of sanding block that conforms to the area.
http://images14.fotki.com/v257/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN6965-vi.jpg

[Dino Scuderia]

Items for discussion just so everyone keeps on the same page.

I think it was decided we will put the wipers on the 911's.

We will look into sanding the tire lettering off the kit tires and stencil GOODYEAR on them. We can do this in a batch process by passing the tires to whomever will do the stenciling at a meeting.

I'll sand a tire or too and see how they look and how long it takes...if it looks workable then everyone can sand their own tires then pass them to one person who will stencil, this will keep them looking uniform.

Anything else?

[Matt Wadlinger]

Great info to keep them all uniform. I can't wait 'til you finish so I can start mine. :)

These cars seem to all have a vertical support behind the mesh in the nose opening.
We can add this with a bit of 1/2 round styrene strip. It will be incorrect as it is in front of the mesh, but it'll look more correct than it currently does.
What do you think?

[Dino Scuderia]

Speaking of that 'mesh', on most of the real cars the mesh is painted body color....so if we paint our cars and put a wash in the 'mesh' finish on the kit it'll look about the same.

[Dino Scuderia]

Henry checked the headers that he's having made for our project cars and he said the headers will exit below the 911's body work.....so we need to fill the one exhaust indention that is there and not make anymore.

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I'm not so sure that there are no cutouts; looking at some pics of the restored Bright Green car (the one Matt's building) shows two cutouts for the headers. The blue car that Eric sent, and all the others, I can't really tell. We will have to fill the one cutout as it's too far outboard. We need to see where the headers end up w/the engine installed and chassis installed. When will Henry have the headers? I know Mike L. has a set that he got from Wayne to cast. We can snag them back from him possibly for a test fit.

[Dino Scuderia]

I'm not so sure that there are no cutouts; looking at some pics of the restored Bright Green car (the one Matt's building) shows two cutouts for the headers. The blue car that Eric sent, and all the others, I can't really tell. We will have to fill the one cutout as it's too far outboard. We need to see where the headers end up w/the engine installed and chassis installed. When will Henry have the headers? I know Mike L. has a set that he got from Wayne to cast. We can snag them back from him possibly for a test fit.

You're right, and now Henry's changed his mind and says we need notches.

So I told him to mock it up and get us a measurement center to center and header diameter. He'll get back to me in a bit and I'll pass it along.

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Here are some header cutout dimensions:

Centerline to centerline between L - R is 1 3/16"; you can mark the locations by starting at the lower right corner of the existing cutout and measure to the right 1/16", and then make the second mark 1 3/16" to the right of that. Cutouts need to be the same as existing; notch up to the bottom of the bumper. Use pics for reference. I'll take pics when I do the actual conversion.

If there are any discrepancies w/those measurements let me know!

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Please note updated dimensions in the above reply; the header cutout dimensions have been refined/updated.

[Dino Scuderia]

Too late, already did the first measurement.

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Too late, already did the first measurement.

Don't worry, it'll still work. I just tidied up the #'s after looking at Henry's model w/the headers/pipes in place. Wayne had some problem w/his bumper, after the new notches were cut the whole bumper snapped in half :( It's fixed though. I have to take pics of my bumper in the next day or so.

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Items for discussion just so everyone keeps on the same page.

I think it was decided we will put the wipers on the 911's.

We will look into sanding the tire lettering off the kit tires and stencil GOODYEAR on them. We can do this in a batch process by passing the tires to whomever will do the stenciling at a meeting.

I'll sand a tire or too and see how they look and how long it takes...if it looks workable then everyone can sand their own tires then pass them to one person who will stencil, this will keep them looking uniform.

Anything else?

Since stenciling has proven to be a big hassle; no stencil is correct and nobody has one that is correct, we will substitute Good Year tire decals that Wayne has plenty of for everyone. Pics later.

[Eric Cole]

Hmmmm.......,

I hope those Goodyear tire decals are like the ones that come in the Fujimi GT40 kits. I looked at some orginal pics online last night (with Richard Petty sitting in the drivers seat) and the lettering on the tires was the smaller type like those on the 1966 gt40 (and typical of the 60's / 70's cars) so I stole a set from a GT40 kit and finished my tires off last night.

They fit perfect by the way....

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Hmmmm.......,

I hope those Goodyear tire decals are like the ones that come in the Fujimi GT40 kits. I looked at some orginal pics online last night (with Richard Petty sitting in the drivers seat) and the lettering on the tires was the smaller type like those on the 1966 gt40 (and typical of the 60's / 70's cars) so I stole a set from a GT40 kit and finished my tires off last night.

They fit perfect by the way....

You have the best ones, but the ones we're using are larger. The picture that Henry had last weekend did show larger logos on them; so it's possible that multiple logo sizes were used.

[Eric Cole]

I can change mine if I need to, to make them all the same.

Here's what I took mine from. These appear to be pics of the original cars judging by the look of the guy in the yellow jacket and sneakers. :D And by the cars in the background of the second picture.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/justdande/Completed%20Model%20Cars/IROC%20Porsche/6iroc73.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/justdande/Completed%20Model%20Cars/IROC%20Porsche/3iroc73.jpg

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Here are pictures of the rear bumper before/during/after the exhaust cutouts are modified.

Here the bumper is marked where the new cutouts will be added. The cutout centerline to centerline distance is 1 3/16" or 3cm. Make the new cutout the same shape/size as the one that is being filled.
http://images15.fotki.com/v260/photos/1/10258/17860/DSCN6982-vi.jpg

Here we see the two new cutouts marked and ready to be cut; the old cutout has been filled w/a piece of styrene and superglue and sanded smooth.
http://images12.fotki.com/v254/photos/1/10258/17860/DSCN6983-vi.jpg

Here is the bumper w/the new cutouts added.
http://images14.fotki.com/v248/photos/1/10258/17860/DSCN6984-vi.jpg

Next up is priming/painting.

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Slow progress...the Revson car is primed and ready for paint. I'll have to mix the yellow as it's lighter and greener than Tamiya or Testors yellow.

Spent a lot of time smoothing the "lumpiness" inherent in this body. Ain't no Tamiya kit when it comes to part finish.

Here it is primed:
http://images15.fotki.com/v265/photos/1/10258/17860/CarreraRSRa-vi.jpg

Here's the front intake, I added a tiny strip of styrene in the middle:
http://images15.fotki.com/v260/photos/1/10258/17860/CarreraRSRb-vi.jpg

Not to thrilled w/the fit of the engine cover...it bows in the middle, and that seems common to all of them (I also found it on the black ACME car).
http://images15.fotki.com/v261/photos/1/10258/17860/CarreraRSRc-vi.jpg

Here's the white primer Revson car pictured w/ACME's black car:
http://images15.fotki.com/v263/photos/1/10258/17860/CarreraRSRs-vi.jpg

[ClayK]

Great work, and explanations. I'm really enjoying looking through all the IROC threads. You guys have got a great group prject with this one. I can't wait to see this one in paint.

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Got some paint on it tonight. I think I got the color fairly close; it's a mixture of three shades of Testors/Model Master/Boyds enamels...yellow, classic white, and green. It's not as vivid as TS16 yellow which is Ferrari Fly Yellow. It's a bit more muted, w/slight tinge of green. Close enough for gummint work. The paint was thinned w/lacquer thinner, and had to be mixed frequently as it was wanting to separate out...but it didn't go gooey nor globby, so it worked okay. The paint is pretty old...don't use enamels much anymore :rolleyes:

It actually covered quite well. It'll get some midcoat sanding and a few more coats of yellow before a clearcoat (Testors lacquer...won't hurt enamel and it dries really nice).

http://images15.fotki.com/v268/photos/1/10258/17860/YellowIROCa-vi.jpg

Got the engine cover edge bent down a bit to fit slightly better. To be honest the engine covers on these models fit like crap. The edge by the window is bowed upwards, the mold lines are pretty bad, and the fit above the taillight panel isn't great...as if a bit of styrene strip could have been added to fit better. The little pin to locate it to the body to keep it from falling off doesn't quite fit in the hole...they never did fit well, even when this was freshly tooled. Such is life LOL.
http://images15.fotki.com/v267/photos/1/10258/17860/YellowIROCb-vi.jpg

http://images15.fotki.com/v267/photos/1/10258/17860/YellowIROCc-vi.jpg

[Steve_L]

Bob, that #3 Revson is looking mighty good!

I have added the vertical styrene strip to the front intake area, so now I think I am ready to prime the #4 Follmer body.

My plan is to use Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer under the Acid Blue (Dark) color to make it as bright as possible. Do you know of any reason I should use something else? Thanks.

Steve

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Bob, that #3 Revson is looking mighty good!

I have added the vertical styrene strip to the front intake area, so now I think I am ready to prime the #4 Follmer body.

My plan is to use Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer under the Acid Blue (Dark) color to make it as bright as possible. Do you know of any reason I should use something else? Thanks.

Steve

Thanks!

Tamiya white primer is perfect.

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I had a FUBAR w/my second color coat on the Revson car. I had mixed three colors to get the yellow looking right; I ran out of it and when I repainted the car a second time I mixed the paint to match...looked great wet but it dried too dark, looking more like mustard yellow. DOH! That's what I get for rushing; using some paint that I had that wasn't quite right to begin with.

A trip to Hobbytown found a Testors MM color for military use called "Cadmium Yellow". It's a perfect match to my eyes. Lighter than TS16, not as "orange" as it almost has a slight tinge of green. No need to mix it w/any other color. It's flat, so I had to put two stages of Gunze B501 clear on it. Love the Gunze clear; it doesn't react w/enamels or laquers, dries very fast and to an almost teflon-like finish. It doesn't seem to soften at all w/contact nor moisture, unlike Gunze bottle acrylic. It's as easy to use as Tamiya, but it dries faster and harder. I have to get it at HLJ as it's very expensive in the US, and you'll only clear 1-2 bodies w/one can.

I'm amazed how well the yellows covered. I was able to reshoot the yellow w/the correct Cadmium yellow in a few very thin layers to get the color correct. The underlying paint I mixed also covered well...areas I had sanded through to white were easily covered and disappeared. If I'd been using Tamiya sprays I may not have had as good luck w/that.

Here are my two color cups of yellow...the botched color on the left, the Cadmium Yellow on the right. I'm glad I can see the difference on the screen. None of the yellows nor blues tend to ever look right on a computer screen.
http://images15.fotki.com/v269/photos/1/10258/17860/YellowIROCrevised-vi.jpg

Here's the repainted body. Not perfect, but plenty good enough. Ready for polish and window trim this week. As you can see, I darkened panel lines w/a .005 black permanent-ink Pigma Micron pen prior to the final coats of yellow. I like this technique, even though the paint in the panel lines is glossy, the effect of a shadow is very convincing. Easiest and cleanest way to achieve panel lines I've ever found. Yellow is a royal PITA to get an acrylic panel line wash to look right.
http://images16.fotki.com/v273/photos/1/10258/17860/YellowIROCrevised2-vi.jpg

[Eric Cole]

That color looks much better than the previous color.

I need to try some of the Gunze clear one of these days.

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Step 1: Engine Assembly

Don’t assume the instructions are correct for the IROC car! There are a few items to watch out for, certain color selections and the IROC’s lack of intake and exhaust detail from the kit. You’ll be using resin/aluminum headers from Henry, and will ditch the factory exhaust and the air cleaner.

You can assemble the engine as shown at the top and middle of page 2. However the carburetors K33 need to be semigloss black and not silver, the tops of them should be cut off and hollowed out (they have detail that is supposed to locate the air cleaner which isn't used on this model)-I used a small ball-head cutter on my Dremel after nipping them off w/my sprue cutters, I started w/one side and kept the other side intact so I wouldn't forget where the carbs went on the manifold. See Matt’s pics #39 and 40 here: http://public.fotki.com/CADguy/reference_photos/porsche/1974_iroc_911_rsr/for reference. Parts C12, fan C22 (not called out,) valve covers C13/14 should be semigloss or satin black. Disregard the exhaust parts K36/37 and the hoses K30/41, they aren’t used.

The only part from the top of page 3 that should be installed is the shroud extension C4, which needs to be painted a yellowish-brown (along w/the engine top C1). The air cleaner K32 and related parts, and muffler K34/35 aren’t used (use the headers supplied by Henry). You can use Matt’s photos for reference if you want to detail it out the wazoo w/wires and hoses. It looks a bit sparse as-is, but the engine is really buried under the engine cover and not nearly as visible as you might think.

Here are some finished shots of the engine. Forgive the sloppiness, I'm not an engine guy LOL, I hope you get cleaner results on your carbs. I'll install the headers when the motor is in the chassis :
http://images15.fotki.com/v266/photos/1/10258/17860/DSCN7107-vi.jpg
http://images15.fotki.com/v265/photos/1/10258/17860/DSCN7108-vi.jpg
http://images15.fotki.com/v265/photos/1/10258/17860/DSCN7109-vi.jpg
http://images15.fotki.com/v260/photos/1/10258/17860/DSCN7110-vi.jpg

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Step 2: Front Suspension “Front axles assembly”.

This step is relatively painless. The suspension uprights are black, w/silver shock tubes (see my photos). Beware of two items: Parts C29/30 suspension uprights have four mouting holes for the disc brake assemblies. See my photo; you will be gluing the disc sub-assemblies to the holes that give the lowest ride height. Carefully follow the arrows in the instructions to the proper holes, I’ve also marked them in silver in the photo. The other item of note is the spacers D4; they are the longer of the front and rear spacers. Do not use the deceptively similar front/rear spacers from the “K” tree.

If you pay attention to these two details, the front suspension should give you no problems at all.

These are the parts you need to pay particular attention to when you glue on the brake sub-assemblies:
http://images15.fotki.com/v264/photos/1/10258/2956283/CarreraRSRgluepoints-vi.jpg

Couple of pics of the front suspension assembled to the chassis:
http://images15.fotki.com/v266/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7113-vi.jpg
http://images15.fotki.com/v267/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7114-vi.jpg

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Step 3: Rear Axles Assembly

This step could drive you to drink, the assembly of the trailing arms C10/11 to main suspension crossmember C19 is rather tricky. Pay close attention to the parts so you don’t mix them up side to side or upside down. It’s easiest to place parts C10/11 into the holes in the chassis before gluing to C19 crossmember. Get it right and it works well, but you’ll feel like you need three hands to get all parts lined up and glued together correctly. The shocks C33 have pins on the ends that fit up into the main chassis, but there are no holes/receivers there for them to glue into so the fit is a bit loose. Just fill the big hollow area where they rest w/some glue and don’t worry that the pins don’t fit into receivers. The most important part is where the shocks attach to the trailing arms C10/11. They fit fine, and positively locate the entire suspension.

Sway bar C32 fits okay, but seems to be out in space. Again pay very close attention to the assembly of the disc brake/hub sub assemblies to the trailing arms, making sure you’re using spacers D3, or the shorter of the two. I clipped D3/D4 away from the tree and didn’t trust that the short ones went in back and the long ones went in front-the instructions are correct. I’ve marked the gluing locations (2 of the 4 available holes) in red in the picture; also w/arrows:
http://images15.fotki.com/v264/photos/1/10258/2956283/CarreraRSRgluepoints-vi.jpg

Test fit everything before gluing! Before finally gluing the hubs/brakes to the four suspension points, I test fit the wheels to the chassis to the body and they seem to fit fine.
http://images16.fotki.com/v272/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7115-vi.jpg
http://images15.fotki.com/v269/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7116-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v276/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7117-vi.jpg

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More detail on the rear suspension:

http://images14.fotki.com/v244/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7118-vi.jpg

I slipped the motor in after the rear suspension was installed, it’s a very easy fit. Headers will be installed later. Next step-interior. The hard parts of this build should now be behind us at this point-the rest of the instructions look pretty simple and basic. We shall see!

http://images16.fotki.com/v272/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7119-vi.jpg

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Step 4: Cockpit Assembly

This part is relatively painless. First of all, you will not be using the rear seat, parts F23/24. You will be painting part A3 (the part the seats would have glued to) flat black. If you’re going full-detail on the engine, the underside of A3 should be painted body color. You’ll be assembling the roll bar as seen in the sidebar, however it doesn’t show you where it attaches to the chassis. There are two holes in the chassis where they fit. The main roll bar will angle back, and attach to the two uprights O1/O3 and the two uprights are connected w/a crossmember O2. The package shelf attaches easily, and there are two handles that mount on them.

Everything inside is flat or satin black, except I painted the roll bar semigloss black.

Some will say the “ears” on door panels J1/J2 and on center tunnel J6, parts that jut out to the floor to locate the seats, are unnecessary and should be removed. However if you do this you’ll have to put some other spacers under the seats. I chose to leave the parts alone and deal w/the “incorrect” nature of those parts…they’re all flat black and will be barely noticeable inside by the floor.

Lots of flash to clean up on the various parts, especially the bottom of firewall A2 and rear firewall A3, both at the point on the floorboard where they attach above the central tunnel J6. My firewall A2 had a huge rectangular piece of flash in the middle at the bottom, looked almost like it belongs there. The bottom center should look like it has a rectangular opening to go over the center tunnel.

The fit of the door panels is a little loosey-goosey. The front corners where the instrument panel attach to it can easily be too far apart.

Here it is so far, I still have the IP decals to do and some seatbelts.
http://images16.fotki.com/v273/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7122-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v274/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7123-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v273/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7124-vi.jpg

[BRE350Z]

Look great and I really appreciate the details regarding the suspension, etc. Looking forward to seeing the cars at the meeting. I need to clean off the table and get busy on mine. Painted the chassis with the paint from PaintScratch.com and the color looks right but I believe the paint is fairly hot even when thinned with Mr Thiner. Definitely need to use VX primer on the body first.

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Final assemblies:

The final assembly of the model is relatively painless. Nothing out of the ordinary, everything fit fairly well. The door handles and rearview mirror are small and very fragile, they're hard to remove from the parts tree w/o damage.

The resin/aluminum headers were easy to install. I cut off most of the resin pipes, and the aluminum ones slipped right over the resin stubs. I painted the headers/pipes Testors Burn Iron metalizer.
http://images14.fotki.com/v249/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7127-vi.jpg

The interior still needs a bit of work on the instruments and seats/seatbelts, and of course we're going to be getting some decals for the cars from Clay Kemp as soon as I send him the full information package (which is now ready to hit the mail).

I made some paper "grilles" for the front end. They're temporarily attached, I can make them decals or keep them paper and glue them in place. The background is dark gray, the slats were tinted w/a yellow Sharpie. Not bad, but they're sticking out a bit now as they're squished in place w/Fun Tack.
http://images16.fotki.com/v270/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7125-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v270/photos/1/10258/2956283/DSCN7126-vi.jpg
As you can see, there's a gap between the filler panel between the taillights and the edge of the trunk lid. Matt added an extra piece of styrene to the filler panel; if I were doing this over I'd add a shim/piece to the edge of the lid instead; it depends where you glue the filler panel. If you haven't painted the car yet, you might want to take care of this gap for a better appearance. Yes, my exhaust pipes aren't exactly the same length. Hey, it's a race car...they're never perfect ;)

This kit is not very well engineered; lots of sketchy part quality and fit, an average Revell kit is better executed IMHO. No matter what people might tell you, Fujimi Enthusiast kits are NOT the be-all, end-all in models. They're a bit crude. A high parts count does not make for a well-engineered kit. That said, this kit has far fewer parts than some of the later cars like BMW's, Ferraris, and Lamborghinis. It's really not difficult to build nor all that time-consuming. You just spend more time prepping all parts prior to paint/assembly. Fun kit to build!

Oh, and all that time I spent marking the right places to glue the rear wheels? When I test fit them w/the body in place it sat too high, I had to remove the hubs and pins and fashion a shim to one side and set the car to the right height and glue the rear wheel assemblies in place like that for the right final ride height. Glue the hubs to the wheels FIRST, then the assemblies to the rear suspension w/the car shimmed up to the proper ride height.

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A big THANK YOU to Clay for the IROC decals, they're great. This morning I put about half the decals on the Revson car; I left off the ones on the passenger side so that we might do that photo shoot of the twelve cars before they got their driver and sponsor markings.

I took a rear shot so you can see the decals, they were easy to deal with and I assume we're going to have a decalpalooza in the future so that we can all get the decals in place at the same time and provide assistance for the process-I know I have trouble w/decals, they're sort of like playing w/a rattlesnake ready to strike and you feel like you need five hands to get everything accomplished.

Here's the car so far, it'll be at the March meeting this afternoon.

http://images16.fotki.com/v280/photos/1/10258/2956283/Decals1-vi.jpg

[Dennis]

Thats looking really cool there Bob! The group project is going to be awesome when done!!

[BRE350Z]

Bob, looks great, send me Clay's address via e-mail and I'll mail him a model or two.

[Dino Scuderia]

Yeah, the decals rock!

[ClayK]

Thanks, guys. Glad to help. Looking good Bob!!!

[Matt Wadlinger]

Those look really good. The car looks less nekkid now.

Thank you very much Clay.

[Glacier modeler]

Question for those who have completed their Porsche: what is the feasibility of not adding the suspension parts until after the body and chassis have been mated, as Juha Airio suggests in the most recent Scale Auto? I'm thinking this may not be practical at the rear, considering the engine placement is involved, but it may be feasible with the front suspension.

Second, related question: can the resin header pipes wait until final assembly?

Paul's progress report to date: engine is 95% complete, some interior parts painted. Will be tackling the interior next, then painting the suspension components.

[Zoom Zoom]

I didn't see Juha's comments as I don't have the latest issue yet, so I'm not sure what you're talking about. This kit is probably best to assemble the suspension first.

However, it's easiest to glue the hubs/brakes to the back of the wheels first, and assemble those to the suspension which could be done last. Get the car at the proper ride height w/spacers (business cards work well) then carefully attach the wheels to the suspension. Test fit first.

Header pipes are best left until last. Test fit the tubes over the header pipes (after they are trimmed), paint everything, and you can glue the headers to the engine and the pipes at the end so they are the same length.