Eric Cole
05-07-2007, 10:48 PM
Part 1 of the Drybrush and Wash Demo from the May '07 ACME Club Meeting. Thanks to Bob Downie for taking the pics. In all there are 30 pictures that will be posted under 3 separate post.
Feel free to comment, ask questions and / or provide additional information and tips. There are hundreds of ways to achieve realistic weathering effcts. This just happens to be the way I do it.
http://images21.fotki.com/v832/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1478-vi.jpg
Various painted parts to Tamiya's Lotus 99T F1 car. The exhaust in this kit was stained using Tamiya's new Weathering Set containing burnt red, burnt blue and oil stain colors.
http://images21.fotki.com/v632/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1479-vi.jpg
The engine of the Tamiya 1/12th scale Honda RA273 F1 car. The white exhaust headers were weathered slightly using Tamiya's weathering sets color soot, rust and light rust. (This was my first attempt using these sets. I think I may redo these exhaust once I get a little more practice).
http://images24.fotki.com/v824/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1480-vi.jpg
The transaxle for another 1/12th scale kit. The idea here is to get a good base coat color before you apply any drybrushed colors. The drybrushing should give you a nice 3 dimensional look when finished. The look is achieved by creating the effect of highlights with the dry brushed color and shadows with the darker base color. In this case the base color is Plasti-Kote Cast Gray, which is slighter lighter than Duplicolors Cast Gray.
http://images14.fotki.com/v387/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1481-vi.jpg
Here you can see that the engine block has been sprayed with a base coat of Duplicolor Rebuilders Cast Grey Engine Enamel in preparation for drybrushing with a lighter shade of Tamiya Metallic Gray acrylic.
http://images24.fotki.com/v853/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1482-vi.jpg
A photo showing the available weathering sets from Tamiya. These are great products for weather and highlighting details but it's only one of the many options that can be used to achieve the same effects. Paint is of course, another great option.
http://images16.fotki.com/v303/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1483-vi.jpg
This is the cam cover for a 1/12th scale car. The kit instructions call for a semi-gloss black finish. To add depth to the part I have painted it with flat black and the surface will be rubbed slighty with a cloth to give the flat finish a slight semi-gloss sheen adding more visual effect to the part than what is achieved by simply painting the part with semi-gloss black paint.
http://images21.fotki.com/v759/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1487-vi.jpg
Some of my favorite paints for drybrushing to achieve a nice natural metal finish are Tamiya's XF-56 Metallic Gray and Tamiya's XF-16Flat Aluminum. Both colors should be drybrushed over a darker base color as I've noted previously. For simplification you can even spray parts, that you wish to have a natural metal finish, with a base of flat black paint. Then drybrush your metallic colors over the flat black.
http://images24.fotki.com/v852/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1489-vi.jpg
Here, the transaxle, mounted to a toothpick to make it easier to handle and the aluminum paint that will be applied during the drybrushing.
http://images112.fotki.com/v585/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1491-vi.jpg
Various tools of the trade... The applicators under my hand are Tamiya applicators made specifically for applying their weathering sets. These are very similar to makeup applicators used to apply eye shadow (according to my wife) and can be purchased in the cosmetic department at just about any department store.
A variety of brushes are used for drybrushing and applying washes. For drybrushing you will need flat or round tipped brushes with relatively stiff bristles. If the bristles are too soft they will find their way into all of the low spots and will ruin the effect of drybrushing. Remember, the effect we are after when drybrushing is to highlight the high spots and let the lower darker areas be the shadow.
http://images112.fotki.com/v588/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1492-vi.jpg
The exhaust headers for the Lotus 99T were sprayed with silver paint in preparation for the burnt blue and burnt red heat stain from one of Tamiya's weathering sets. Here you can see that the color is being applied to the exhaust. Apply the colors in light coats building up to the shade you prefer.
To be continued in next post....
Feel free to comment, ask questions and / or provide additional information and tips. There are hundreds of ways to achieve realistic weathering effcts. This just happens to be the way I do it.
http://images21.fotki.com/v832/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1478-vi.jpg
Various painted parts to Tamiya's Lotus 99T F1 car. The exhaust in this kit was stained using Tamiya's new Weathering Set containing burnt red, burnt blue and oil stain colors.
http://images21.fotki.com/v632/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1479-vi.jpg
The engine of the Tamiya 1/12th scale Honda RA273 F1 car. The white exhaust headers were weathered slightly using Tamiya's weathering sets color soot, rust and light rust. (This was my first attempt using these sets. I think I may redo these exhaust once I get a little more practice).
http://images24.fotki.com/v824/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1480-vi.jpg
The transaxle for another 1/12th scale kit. The idea here is to get a good base coat color before you apply any drybrushed colors. The drybrushing should give you a nice 3 dimensional look when finished. The look is achieved by creating the effect of highlights with the dry brushed color and shadows with the darker base color. In this case the base color is Plasti-Kote Cast Gray, which is slighter lighter than Duplicolors Cast Gray.
http://images14.fotki.com/v387/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1481-vi.jpg
Here you can see that the engine block has been sprayed with a base coat of Duplicolor Rebuilders Cast Grey Engine Enamel in preparation for drybrushing with a lighter shade of Tamiya Metallic Gray acrylic.
http://images24.fotki.com/v853/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1482-vi.jpg
A photo showing the available weathering sets from Tamiya. These are great products for weather and highlighting details but it's only one of the many options that can be used to achieve the same effects. Paint is of course, another great option.
http://images16.fotki.com/v303/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1483-vi.jpg
This is the cam cover for a 1/12th scale car. The kit instructions call for a semi-gloss black finish. To add depth to the part I have painted it with flat black and the surface will be rubbed slighty with a cloth to give the flat finish a slight semi-gloss sheen adding more visual effect to the part than what is achieved by simply painting the part with semi-gloss black paint.
http://images21.fotki.com/v759/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1487-vi.jpg
Some of my favorite paints for drybrushing to achieve a nice natural metal finish are Tamiya's XF-56 Metallic Gray and Tamiya's XF-16Flat Aluminum. Both colors should be drybrushed over a darker base color as I've noted previously. For simplification you can even spray parts, that you wish to have a natural metal finish, with a base of flat black paint. Then drybrush your metallic colors over the flat black.
http://images24.fotki.com/v852/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1489-vi.jpg
Here, the transaxle, mounted to a toothpick to make it easier to handle and the aluminum paint that will be applied during the drybrushing.
http://images112.fotki.com/v585/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1491-vi.jpg
Various tools of the trade... The applicators under my hand are Tamiya applicators made specifically for applying their weathering sets. These are very similar to makeup applicators used to apply eye shadow (according to my wife) and can be purchased in the cosmetic department at just about any department store.
A variety of brushes are used for drybrushing and applying washes. For drybrushing you will need flat or round tipped brushes with relatively stiff bristles. If the bristles are too soft they will find their way into all of the low spots and will ruin the effect of drybrushing. Remember, the effect we are after when drybrushing is to highlight the high spots and let the lower darker areas be the shadow.
http://images112.fotki.com/v588/photos/4/498566/4908886/IMG_1492-vi.jpg
The exhaust headers for the Lotus 99T were sprayed with silver paint in preparation for the burnt blue and burnt red heat stain from one of Tamiya's weathering sets. Here you can see that the color is being applied to the exhaust. Apply the colors in light coats building up to the shade you prefer.
To be continued in next post....